september 10 through 16, 2015

(Photos will be added later)

Sep 10, 2015

Our first day in Yellowstone NP (YSNP). We drive the Honda in at the East entrance, 52 miles west from Cody, then another 27 miles to the nearest visitor center in Fishing Bridge. The main road through the park looks like a figure 8 and the East entrance has you come in halfway the lower circle, on the right side, if you know what I mean. From there we explore counter clockwise towards Canyon Village and pretty soon we get our first whiff of geothermal activity: sulphur! We stop at our first of many little parking areas at the side of the road and check out the Mud Volcano area – a roaring hot spring cave and a good few bubbling mud soups, small and large. Next we head further north (bison jam delay at Hayden Valley), west to Norris (tree cutting delays), and north again at the west side of the figure 8 to Mammoth Hot Springs (road and bridge construction delay). Your average speed goes way down here…

We wanted to check out the Norris campground, but somehow miss it in the construction zone. No matter, we check out the Mammoth Hot Springs campground instead after we pick up a few good maps at the nearest visitor center. The volunteers tell us that on the weekend there will be people leaving, and if we’re early, we should be able to get a spot. It will be much more affordable than some of the outside campgrounds we checked – as much as $67 per night! Not likely! The YSNP campgrounds are $20 or less, and with our senior NP pass we don’t only get in the park for free, but the camping fee is halved as well. They have plenty of roomy RV sites.

We don’t fancy passing the road repairs Saturday morning in the big machine. Via the north entrance is an extra 150 miles or so. Going the figure 8 top half counter clockwise is the Dunraven Pass. Hmm. We decide to try the northeast entrance as our route back to Cody to check it out. On the way we see bison, pronghorn, mule deer - all with babies! - , trumpeter swans, unusual ducks. The ducks could be cinnamon teal. The swans are a surprise; they are huge and beautiful, five of them, the most periled birds on the continent, and it turns out YSNP is one of the very few places they still live and breed. We didn’t know any of this but it says so on the information board at the parking spot ;) We only stopped because we’re catching on to the wildlife viewing method of choice: one stopped or parked car, look around; two or more cars, park alongside and ask what they’re seeing. Especially if one of them is a little old-fashioned tour bus ;).

We go see the upper and the lower falls in the Yellowstone River while we pass them – breathtaking beauty all around us, a deep canyon, awesome falls, the bluest sky you can imagine. We have lunch alongside the river further down and see grey jays. They see us too and come see if we’re sharing. We’re not.

When we have left the park we realize we’re in Montana. For a few miles at least. This route, the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway, is unbelievably awesome; there is a magnificent mountain range to our right, the south side of the valley/canyon we’re driving through. Aaand it turns out we have to cross over it! This goes via a pass full of switchbacks and long steep climbs. Henk frowns. If we take this route Saturday morning we’ll have to drive it in reverse. Not a good plan. It’s the Dead Indian Pass, over 10,000’. Almost equally impressive on the other side. Then the last umpteen miles to Cody are easy. At night we pour over the map to see what the better route is. Henk decides on Dunraven Pass, in the park. At least it’s fewer miles, and we want to be at the campground by, what, 8 AM? 8:30? To be among the few that will get in? So we’ll have to leave plenty early as it is…

Sep 11

First order of the day is, back to the grocery store to fill the fridge and the freezer; there are no normal grocery stores in the park, only convenience stores. Henk fills the clean water tank and empties the grey and black tanks. Today we move as close to the east entrance of YSNP as we can, which is a Shoshone National Forest campground called Eagle Creek. They charge $15 (we get half off) (*grin*) and it is the most peaceful place ever. We’re there by lunchtime. The park host advises a site along the Shoshone river with just the right amount of shade. A bald eagle flies over and a hawk perches on a treetop nearby, the river gurgles, I make sun tea in a canning jar, we relax, and neighbor Jim comes over for a chat. There are lots of animals here, he says. Bears, bison, elk, deer – there are plenty of rose hips for the bears on the campground. We don’t see any. After dinner we make sure we’re ready to leave reaaally early. Henk tosses and turns all night. He’s dreaming of crossing the Dunraven Pass.

Sep. 12

We get to Mammoth Hot Springs at 8:45, plenty in time to get a spot on the campground. For this we get up at 5:30, are on the road at 5:50, cross two passes – one minor one besides the Dunraven – before dawn - 3 hours of mountain roads, passes, and bison jams… We take it easy in the morning and after lunch we check out “downtown”. We drive and hike around the hot springs terraces. People are not allowed off the boardwalks, but there are elk tracks in the dust and there’s a snake slithering up the side between the shrubs. We’re puzzled there aren’t more animal casualties – maybe they’re not as stupid as humans…

After this afternoon’s entertainment we check out guided tours at the hotel (only a few left and all booked out) and wolf-related events from the Yellowstone Institute ($hundreds! Are they kidding?). We don’t care, we can drive to where we want to go and stop where the little yellow bus stops. We admire the herd of wild elk that is enjoying the green grass next to the visitor center and head back, and also admire the kestrel in the little tree next to the RV.

Sep 13

Since we’re here for the week we can take it easy on the sightseeing. So after church in Gardner we cruise to Bozeman, MT. There is a small grizzly sanctuary there with 5 rescue bears. We see Bella, the 20 month old. I can understand people aren’t weary enough of bears, she really looks harmless and adorable. The employees give talks about safety and answer everybody’s questions. Next we go into Bozeman and have lunch on the terrace of the Garage Diner where the menus are glued between two number plates. Great place with awesome food! If you’re ever in Bozeman, they’re highly recommended. Then a stop at Walmart for bear spray and a few other necessities, and back to the sanctuary where they have Jack and Maggie in the outdoor play area. We enjoy watching them for a bit, then it’s time for their nap and Brutus comes out. In between bears the employees hide treats such as peanut butter and grapes. The local raven and magpie swoop down, but Brutus doesn’t mind sharing. He is huge, but raised in a home since he was a newborn, so he is really gentle. Or so they say.

When we get back to the campground the elk herd is coming through, and we visit with camp neighbors from Pasadena for cheese and wine. I bring my tea ;).

Sep 14

We were going to take Fr., eh, Andrew?, the visiting priest from Pakistan, to see Old Faithful, but he got distracted by somebody else, so maybe Wednesday. Instead we drive the Blacktail Deer Plateau one-way dirt road. No surprise that we see a mule deer family, and also 4 grouse. Grouses. We got a few good pictures and I can now tell you, bird book in hand, they were spruce grouse. Next we hike with the masses to the viewpoint for Wraith Falls, and without the masses we hike down to the river at the bottom of the canyon. There’s that certain smell around that tells you there’s a geothermal something nearby. All we can find is a pool of nasty green alongside the river a little ways upstream. Maybe a hot spring full of minerals. And sulphur.

We lunch at a picnic point (mule deer), drive into Slough Creek Valley (pronghorn, bison, a hawk) and watch the bison herd for a while. There is wallowing in the dirt going on, and the three big bulls are harrumphing around, posing for the girls, scaring the calves, and trying to impress each other. On the way back there is an especially large traffic jam, we stop, ask, and watch a mommy black bear sleep with her two cubs on a flat rock in the warm sun, a hundred yards or so up from the road. When we get back to Mammoth Hot Springs, “our” elk are lazing about the visitor center again.

Sep 15 Tuesday

We want to try and see the wolves in the Lamar Valley. It’s raining all night and pitch dark when we get up at 5:15. We forget the folding chairs and the bear spray when we leave at 6, but at least we remember our coffee ;) We only see an osprey. And bison. Herds of them. The people from the little yellow bus go for a short hike and we follow (in bear country, don’t hike with less than 3) (especially if you forget your brandnew canister of bear spray). When they pile back in and leave, we follow. When they stop at another parking, we pull in as well. It’s a potty break. Oh well, might as well… in between downpours…

The little yellow bus drives on and we follow after our own potty breaks; we see them a little further. We stop and ask, what? Mountain goats up against the cliff, two there, and two there. They are tiny specks of pure white, but even so, with the binocs I can just see their furry pantaloons. When we finally leave the little bus to its own devices and drive back past Blacktail Deer Plateau, there are two ?goats? up against the steep hillside, a mommy and a lamb. They’re not very big, soaked and look skinny. The momma has one broken horn and wears a collar. We saw a bison momma with a collar before, and we guess this is how the rangers/scientists/whoever track the herds.

Sep 16 Wednesday

It is raining icy cold rain and blowing icy cold wind this morning. We head for Gardner early to catch early Mass as well as Fr. Edward. We have breakfast first next to the Westin, and when Henk tries to pay the girl says, it’s free, on me, I have a coupon, don’t worry. We think she may be the deacon’s daughter and he may have put her up to it ;) Then we start the loop drive through YSNP to show Fr. Edward what we have already seen, plus a few extra things. Such as Old Faithful! On the way there we try to see a few springs – Grand Prismatic Spring for example – but it is only just above freezing, there is too much fog, it is too cold, too rainy. We share our umbrellas and fuzzy sweaters with Father. The only thing we really see well are the bison and elk that are crossing the road.

At the Old Faithful visitor center the video is just starting, and afterwards it is dry just long enough for us to see this magnificent geyser erupt, a really high one, the ranger is impressed. The rain, probably, he says. Next we mosey over to the lodge and have a delicious lunch. Continuing the loop we pass Fishing Bridge and stop at Mud Volcano. We’re lucky and it’s dry again for a few minutes, so we see the roaring dragon mouth hot spring and some bubbling mud pots. It makes me long for hot soup... The Loop Road goes through Hayden Valley here, where there is always some wildlife to be seen. Right now there is a grizzly bear digging up roots and/or rodents up on the left. Father is just as excited as we are. His camera’s battery is low though, so Henk promises him a copy of his photos. We see the swans (pics from the car window), Lower Falls, and a few deer. Over Dunraven Pass next, and lo, the road is open! Henk bravely starts up the steep and twisty road under the grey rainy clouds. It actually snows on the pass, it’s 32 degrees, but once we’re over the top: sun, clear skies, and a fantastic rainbow coming out of what looks like the “Grand Canyon” of the Yellowstone River. We have some lovely views before the rain closes in again near Mammoth Hot Springs. Henk drops me off so I can run the generator, and brings Father Edward back to Gardner. Once the generator runs well I wrap up and hike from the campground to the visitor center above, avoid the large papa elk, and go ask the rangers about those animals yesterday, with the collar and the broken horn. It turns out to be big horn sheep. Wow. We never thought we’d see those… the cold weather must be bringing them out of the mountain heights. Now we only still want to see the wolves…